Futbol=Soccer=Serious

Soccer game

Stadium in Sao Paolo

I had the fortunate experience of going to a semi-final soccer game last night to watch Cruzeiro beat Sao Paolo, although it wasn’t supposed to happen like that.

“If Sao Paolo wins, we go out, if they lose, we go home,” is what Patrick said.

The game was at 10 PM, but we had to leave at 7:30 PM to pick up a few of Patrick’s friends and sit in notorious Sao Paolo traffic for a while. Of course, I was rooting for Sao Paolo to win, but I haven’t gotten to the point of the trip (yet) where I’m interested in staying out until 7 AM only to be completely unproductive the following day. (Rio’s next on the agenda, and if I decide to couchsurf there my first two nights, I’m sure I’ll need to party late to adjust to the described sleeping arrangement: a mattress on the floor of the CS host.)

In any case, as a traveler and not a tourist, I am trying to be a go-with-the-flow kind of person, maybe stray a bit from my comfort zone, do things I wouldn’t get to do at home, so long as I feel safe.

So, when Patrick invited me to the game, I immediately accepted, even though I am not a soccer fan. Not one bit. I knew the game was a big deal though, and I felt priviliged to have been given a ticket. I’m happy to report that the evening was a success, minus Sao Paolo’s loss, that is.

Game night things I found interesting:

-No beer is sold in the stadium; beer is purchased from the car as you get closer to the stadium and parking, if you like.

-As we sat in traffic close to the stadium, I noticed people tailgating and asked if they called it the same thing in Portuguese. They refer to pre-drinking as a warm-up.

-A stadium clock is forbidden. The players are not supposed to know how much time has elapsed.

-Seats are first come, first serve; however, if you are an owner, as Patrick and his friends are, your first come, first serve choices are better. We were, apparently, sitting in the elite, la-ti-da section.

-I could count on one hand how many women were seated in our section.

-Groups of people from Sao Paolo favelas, or slums, were loud and colorful fans, not to missed in the stands. Supposedly, they would rather spend their money on futbol than on food.

-The clock, which is kept only by officials (and devoted fans) never stops.

-Singing is the preferred form of cheering.

-Fights among opposing fans broke out with frequency, and when they did, attention moved from the field to the fight.

-My guess is that about 80% of the fans were sporting their team’s paraphenelia.

-When your team loses, you don’t drown your sorrows in chopp (draft or keg beer). You go home.